Ubud, Bali
Bali has been on my travel 'to do' list for a long time...nearly 10 years now.
I remember being on the elliptical in a stuffy gym, very much wishing to be elsewhere, reading Eat, Pray, Love. Each morning I'd hit the gym, book under arm, and head to the elliptical to read. I'm not sure if it was the rhythmic motion of the elliptical or Gilbert's way with words, but eventually the words on the page would fall away from me as I drifted into daydreams of rice paddies, balmy Balinese nights, and medicine men (in a way that's not quite as weird as it sounds).
I had to go.
Not to have what she had. I wasn't searching for the “Eat, Pray, Love” experience. I was just in search of this far off place that sounded nothing short of amazing. I'd Google it incessantly, look it up on Lonely Planet, play around on TripAdvisor. Essentially, I've had this trip planned in my head for the last decade.
Finally, finally, I had the opportunity to go. With the love of my life. For our post-wedding adventure. We didn't want to call it a honeymoon because, to us, that's not quite what it was. It was an adventure, as is everything we do together.
In my mind honeymoons are uber-relaxing, slow paced, and sprinkled with little adventures. This was, for the most part, not going to be that. During our planning of this trip we had long ago accepted that this wouldn't be a sipping cocktails beneath a shady palm all day after having slept for 10 glorious hours kind of getaway (though there would be a day or two in our trip where we'd make this a priority).
Instead, this was a 'we have approximately 48 hours in each place for the next 14 days and we're going to make the most of every single minute' kind of getaway. It was a 'we'll sleep when we're dead' kind of trip...the kind that we've grown so accustomed to.
So, with limited time and a whole lot of exuberance and newlywed bliss, here's how we took on Ubud, Bali.
On our must-have list: a pool, a mosquito net, and a rice paddy view.
Joglo Villa checked off those boxes, and then some...like incredible homemade daily breakfasts (upon request), an incredible outdoor shower and tub, daily visits from cute critters and a Garfield-esque cat, and a perfectly tucked away, peaceful, location.
We arrived as dusk was settling in and after many, many hours of traveling we were looking forward to a good rest. Not sure if it was jetlag or excitement, but we were up before the sun the following morning. That turned out to be a true blessing, though, as sunrises at Joglo Villa do not disappoint.
This sweet and unassuming little gem was just steps from our villa...after nearly 24 hours of traveling we were grateful to have something so close.
The food was delicious, and spectacularly cheap. All of the men that work here are so sweet and they speak pretty decent English, too. We weren't sure if tipping was customary or not, so we left one. Our waiter was quick to point out that we'd left far too much and was elated when we explained that it was for him. (Side note: Bigger, and more established restaurants may include a service fee on the bill.)
In my delirium I unfortunately only took a few photos of the space....
Oasis Yoga N' Cafe
Another spot within our little Ubud bubble that overlooks those glorious green rice paddies... Oasis Yoga N' Cafe offers an open air dining//lounge space and a variety of yoga classes throughout the day, too.
Stop in for a smoothie, you won't regret it.
Sage Bistro
This spot is a vegan's paradise (they even have vegan ice cream!).
Sage might even turn the most carnivorous of them all to the green side. Ger said this was his favorite meal of the trip, y'all! That's BIG.
Alchemy
This spot is a vegan // holistic // gypsy // shopoholic's paradise. Open air, bright, and a beachy aesthetic, Alchemy is a laid back spot to grab some delicious and nutritious eats...along with some souvenirs to bring home.
Solid (veg friendly) menu, a laid-back lounge-like atmosphere and live music. Personally, I preferred our second stop of the night (No Mas), but Laughing Buddha is definitely worth a visit—even if only for a cocktail and to listen to some tunes.
No Mas
I'd read about this place months before we planned our trip and it was a non-negotiable for me...we had to go here. We started with dinner and drinks at Laughing Buddha and then left in search of No Mas. When we happened upon it the lights were off and chairs were on top of tables. I cannot even describe how deflated I felt.
Literally seconds before we turned on our heels to find a different spot a blonde guy appeared out of nowhere and said, "Ya gotta go upstairs."
There's this neon sign on the sidewalk just outside of No Mas that reads 'Treasure this way' with an arrow pointing down an alley. We both kind of just assumed it was for looks and didn't think to follow it. Thanks to the blonde angel we did, and we found ourselves on the terrace of No Mas.
The space reminded me a bit of Gallow Green // The Heath, one of my favorite spots in New York. Much like Gallow Green // The Heath, the aesthetic at No Mas is hard to put into a category. It's a dimly lit, unique, rustic-meets-industrial chic bar with lots of greenery throughout. There's a live band here, too, which we preferred over the music playing at Laughing Buddha. Added bonus: The bartenders here were incredibly friendly!
About a 30 minute drive from our AirBnB, this waterfall was worth the trip. We went early to avoid a crowd and got there around 9:00AM. Surprisingly the area was already bustling, but not crowded. The area just before you head down to the waterfall is filled with shops and little markets—it's a great spot to grab souvenirs to bring home and there are plenty of food options around, too.
We had read that it was a "hike" down to the waterfall...but it's really just a hike down steps, though to it's credit there are quite a few stairs. Going down is definitely less taxing than going back up.
Also, it's a very sunny spot...don't forget to put on sunscreen before you go!
When you get to the base of the waterfall you can actually rent sun loungers and just relax for a while. They're available at a cost, of course, but it's a minimal fee. The mist from the waterfall makes basking in the sun much more enjoyable, too.
You'll have to pay to go up them (I think it was 10,000IDR // approx. $1), and these will bring you up closer to the top of the waterfall.
There is another set of stairs...yes, you'll have to pay...again...these bring you to a calmer area of pools where you can swim if you want to. Though there is a sign that says "Don't Worry, Be Sexy....But NOT Naked" we did spy a skinny dipper hanging in these upper pools. Didn't bother us, but for conservative folks just know that you could happen upon some free spirits in the waters.
Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
The Monkey Forest is kind of one of those things you have to do when you're in Bali. It's actually just a short (approx. 15-minute) walk from Sage Bistro. Likely you've seen photos of tourists with monkeys on their head, or shoulder...they look cute and, for the most part, harmless.
When we were at Sage we started talking to a group next to us, they had just come back from the Monkey Forest. One of the women said it turned "Planet of the Apes real quick" and she advised us to keep our sunglasses, phones, wallets, and hats out of reach of the monkeys because there's a good chance they'll try to snatch them.
So those cute fuzzy monkeys that looked like wise old men to me were suddenly seeming a little intimidating.
Here's the sign of No-No's you'll encounter once inside:
My favorite "No-No" being 'Do not look the monkeys in the eye.'
Ger was not a fan of this place. It was incredibly crowded, and though the sign says 'Don't Panic' and 'Don't Run' there was a lot of that going on. Certain areas were just total mayhem.
If you don't want monkeys to come near you I highly suggest not buying any bananas inside or bringing any food in for them...they will come for you...er, I mean it.
Also, there are men and women dressed in green that work there that can help you should you encounter some particularly aggressive monkeys (not saying that they'll bite you, but they'll climb you for sure).
my very brief encounter with this guy was enough for me.
Bambu Indah
Bambu Indah is an absolutely STUNNING, one of a kind, eco-conscious property in Ubud. Had we not chosen to stay at an AirBnB this would have been our choice.
We decided to head to Bambu Indah for one of their bespoke experiences. I have long wanted to learn about and partake in a Balinese Blessing and the experience of doing this at Bambu Indah is something neither of us will ever forget.
Many of the photos we took will stay just for us as it was a very personal and special experience, but here are a few leading up to the blessing, some photos of the property, and a few shots from our special dinner there, too.
My favorite part of any trip—exploring the surrounding area on foot rather than in a taxi. You miss so much when you're driving around!
Sometimes, though, you'll get a little annoyed because it's so hot, you've already walked 2 miles, and you reach a brick wall that you can't get around, over, or through...so you give your significant other the finger....
And then, when you're ready to turn around, call it a day, and catch a cab an angel local will spot you and show you a secret passage way to bypass the wall....
and it will lead you to secret little nirvana....
that you'll visit again and again....
This passage way also led us to this weird overpass that we couldn't help but explore...
It was actually pretty creepy once we got down there, and of course Ger told me that it looks like a place where they would do sacrifices, ya know, just to freak me out more...
And then a naked man showed up in that spot just behind me...so we decided right about then that it was time to head out. In hindsight, we're thinking maybe it's some kind of bathhouse and not a place for sacrifices.
After 72 hours of bliss in Ubud it was time to pack up and head out....
Stay tuned for our next destination: Gili Trawangan!
I remember being on the elliptical in a stuffy gym, very much wishing to be elsewhere, reading Eat, Pray, Love. Each morning I'd hit the gym, book under arm, and head to the elliptical to read. I'm not sure if it was the rhythmic motion of the elliptical or Gilbert's way with words, but eventually the words on the page would fall away from me as I drifted into daydreams of rice paddies, balmy Balinese nights, and medicine men (in a way that's not quite as weird as it sounds).
I had to go.
Not to have what she had. I wasn't searching for the “Eat, Pray, Love” experience. I was just in search of this far off place that sounded nothing short of amazing. I'd Google it incessantly, look it up on Lonely Planet, play around on TripAdvisor. Essentially, I've had this trip planned in my head for the last decade.
Finally, finally, I had the opportunity to go. With the love of my life. For our post-wedding adventure. We didn't want to call it a honeymoon because, to us, that's not quite what it was. It was an adventure, as is everything we do together.
In my mind honeymoons are uber-relaxing, slow paced, and sprinkled with little adventures. This was, for the most part, not going to be that. During our planning of this trip we had long ago accepted that this wouldn't be a sipping cocktails beneath a shady palm all day after having slept for 10 glorious hours kind of getaway (though there would be a day or two in our trip where we'd make this a priority).
Instead, this was a 'we have approximately 48 hours in each place for the next 14 days and we're going to make the most of every single minute' kind of getaway. It was a 'we'll sleep when we're dead' kind of trip...the kind that we've grown so accustomed to.
So, with limited time and a whole lot of exuberance and newlywed bliss, here's how we took on Ubud, Bali.
STAY
I love AirBnBs because they make me feel more like a local than a tourist. There's no shortage of spots to choose from in Bali—and seriously, choosing can be a daunting task.On our must-have list: a pool, a mosquito net, and a rice paddy view.
Joglo Villa checked off those boxes, and then some...like incredible homemade daily breakfasts (upon request), an incredible outdoor shower and tub, daily visits from cute critters and a Garfield-esque cat, and a perfectly tucked away, peaceful, location.
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| the (mostly) quiet walk to our villa it's away from the busy roads of ubud, but you will run into a few motorbikes along this pathway
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We arrived as dusk was settling in and after many, many hours of traveling we were looking forward to a good rest. Not sure if it was jetlag or excitement, but we were up before the sun the following morning. That turned out to be a true blessing, though, as sunrises at Joglo Villa do not disappoint.
If you visit Ubud, and you stay at Joglo Villa, do yourself a favor and request breakfast from Made. Breakfast is served at this perfect little table overlooking the pool and rice paddies. Just enough of the morning sun hits it to keep you warm during the cool mornings.
Breakfast was different each morning. A side of fruit, coffee, and fresh guava or watermelon juice came every day. On this particular morning Made placed a 'traditional Balinese breakfast' before us. Fried bananas (which sadly were not gluten free), and this rice dish. I was elated to learn that it's gluten free and vegan. It was so good, and I've already googled recipes to recreate it myself. (If you want to give it a try, too, here's a recipe I found.)
Though we had many visitors throughout our short stay at Made's place, this cat was my favorite of the bunch. His timing was always impeccable—he'd show up just as we were about finished with our breakfast and scraps were up for grabs.
My other favorite visitor was our resident outdoor shower frog who hung out there for the duration of our trip. I could never seem to get a good photo of him, though...he blended in too well (which was also a bit disconcerting during late-night showers).
As soon as the sun came up the backyard was flooded with sunshine, illuminating the stunning green rice paddies that made up our backyard. Though we only stayed here for a few days I am certain that this view would never, ever get old.
Side note: the sun loungers are lightweight and easy to move—this deck is the perfect spot for morning yoga.
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| view from bed |
For more details and photos of Joglo
Villa (Made's Place) visit the listing on AirBnB here.
EAT
Paddy PointThis sweet and unassuming little gem was just steps from our villa...after nearly 24 hours of traveling we were grateful to have something so close.
The food was delicious, and spectacularly cheap. All of the men that work here are so sweet and they speak pretty decent English, too. We weren't sure if tipping was customary or not, so we left one. Our waiter was quick to point out that we'd left far too much and was elated when we explained that it was for him. (Side note: Bigger, and more established restaurants may include a service fee on the bill.)
In my delirium I unfortunately only took a few photos of the space....
Here we are...one of us is overjoyed to be indulging in the first of many Balinese french fries while the other is just happy to be there.
During the day, Paddy Point looks out on this view:
Another spot within our little Ubud bubble that overlooks those glorious green rice paddies... Oasis Yoga N' Cafe offers an open air dining//lounge space and a variety of yoga classes throughout the day, too.
Stop in for a smoothie, you won't regret it.
Sage Bistro
This spot is a vegan's paradise (they even have vegan ice cream!).
Sage might even turn the most carnivorous of them all to the green side. Ger said this was his favorite meal of the trip, y'all! That's BIG.
 |
| The 'Go Jolly Green Giant Bowl' quinoa, steamed kale, sautéed green beens, zucchini, spinach, tofu, and a side of garlic tahini dressing ....and a watermelon juice because I have a serious addiction. |
Teriyaki bowl with sesame crusted tempeh
Alchemy
This spot is a vegan // holistic // gypsy // shopoholic's paradise. Open air, bright, and a beachy aesthetic, Alchemy is a laid back spot to grab some delicious and nutritious eats...along with some souvenirs to bring home.
at this point, it should not be surprising at all that i opted for watermelon juice
The menu is expansive, but I opted to head to the salad bar and create my own concoction. You start with a mixed green base and add four toppings of your choosing and a dressing, too. I loved this because it gave me the opportunity to try a variety of things made on-site, like the tahini kale with sesame seeds (omg) and spiced cashews.
Gerald chose the Nacho Plate (crispy lettuce, mexican chili, tomato salsa, cashew sour cream, avocado guacamole, jalapeno peppers & homemade corn chips) and the Vietnamese Spring Rolls (assorted fresh veggies in a raw papaya wrap—AMAZING—with a side of hoisin dip).
After food came the fun part...shopping! Alchemy offers everything from spices, organic soaps, essential oils, and tinctures to malas and upcycled sandals made from car tires.
 |
| ....intriguing |
I also really enjoyed this sign in their restroom.
DRINK
Laughing BuddhaSolid (veg friendly) menu, a laid-back lounge-like atmosphere and live music. Personally, I preferred our second stop of the night (No Mas), but Laughing Buddha is definitely worth a visit—even if only for a cocktail and to listen to some tunes.
No Mas
I'd read about this place months before we planned our trip and it was a non-negotiable for me...we had to go here. We started with dinner and drinks at Laughing Buddha and then left in search of No Mas. When we happened upon it the lights were off and chairs were on top of tables. I cannot even describe how deflated I felt.
Literally seconds before we turned on our heels to find a different spot a blonde guy appeared out of nowhere and said, "Ya gotta go upstairs."
There's this neon sign on the sidewalk just outside of No Mas that reads 'Treasure this way' with an arrow pointing down an alley. We both kind of just assumed it was for looks and didn't think to follow it. Thanks to the blonde angel we did, and we found ourselves on the terrace of No Mas.
The space reminded me a bit of Gallow Green // The Heath, one of my favorite spots in New York. Much like Gallow Green // The Heath, the aesthetic at No Mas is hard to put into a category. It's a dimly lit, unique, rustic-meets-industrial chic bar with lots of greenery throughout. There's a live band here, too, which we preferred over the music playing at Laughing Buddha. Added bonus: The bartenders here were incredibly friendly!
PLAY
Tegenungan WaterfallAbout a 30 minute drive from our AirBnB, this waterfall was worth the trip. We went early to avoid a crowd and got there around 9:00AM. Surprisingly the area was already bustling, but not crowded. The area just before you head down to the waterfall is filled with shops and little markets—it's a great spot to grab souvenirs to bring home and there are plenty of food options around, too.
We had read that it was a "hike" down to the waterfall...but it's really just a hike down steps, though to it's credit there are quite a few stairs. Going down is definitely less taxing than going back up.
Also, it's a very sunny spot...don't forget to put on sunscreen before you go!
When you get to the base of the waterfall you can actually rent sun loungers and just relax for a while. They're available at a cost, of course, but it's a minimal fee. The mist from the waterfall makes basking in the sun much more enjoyable, too.
From the top it's hard to gauge the size of the waterfall. Every step closer its roar gets louder—it's incredible. At the base there is a small grouping of rocks that you can walk out on to get closer to the actual waterfall. The breeze it gives off is so strong, it gives you a real sense of the power behind it's cascade.
There is another set of stairs on the opposite side of the waterfall, across a little bamboo bridge.
You'll have to pay to go up them (I think it was 10,000IDR // approx. $1), and these will bring you up closer to the top of the waterfall.
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| the bridge from whence you came |
Sacred Monkey Forest Sanctuary
The Monkey Forest is kind of one of those things you have to do when you're in Bali. It's actually just a short (approx. 15-minute) walk from Sage Bistro. Likely you've seen photos of tourists with monkeys on their head, or shoulder...they look cute and, for the most part, harmless.
When we were at Sage we started talking to a group next to us, they had just come back from the Monkey Forest. One of the women said it turned "Planet of the Apes real quick" and she advised us to keep our sunglasses, phones, wallets, and hats out of reach of the monkeys because there's a good chance they'll try to snatch them.
So those cute fuzzy monkeys that looked like wise old men to me were suddenly seeming a little intimidating.
Here's the sign of No-No's you'll encounter once inside:
My favorite "No-No" being 'Do not look the monkeys in the eye.'
Ger was not a fan of this place. It was incredibly crowded, and though the sign says 'Don't Panic' and 'Don't Run' there was a lot of that going on. Certain areas were just total mayhem.
If you don't want monkeys to come near you I highly suggest not buying any bananas inside or bringing any food in for them...they will come for you...er, I mean it.
Also, there are men and women dressed in green that work there that can help you should you encounter some particularly aggressive monkeys (not saying that they'll bite you, but they'll climb you for sure).
Bambu Indah
Bambu Indah is an absolutely STUNNING, one of a kind, eco-conscious property in Ubud. Had we not chosen to stay at an AirBnB this would have been our choice.
We decided to head to Bambu Indah for one of their bespoke experiences. I have long wanted to learn about and partake in a Balinese Blessing and the experience of doing this at Bambu Indah is something neither of us will ever forget.
Many of the photos we took will stay just for us as it was a very personal and special experience, but here are a few leading up to the blessing, some photos of the property, and a few shots from our special dinner there, too.
EXPLORE
The best way to experience an area? Take off on foot + see what you find!My favorite part of any trip—exploring the surrounding area on foot rather than in a taxi. You miss so much when you're driving around!
and it will lead you to secret little nirvana....
that you'll visit again and again....
It was actually pretty creepy once we got down there, and of course Ger told me that it looks like a place where they would do sacrifices, ya know, just to freak me out more...
And then a naked man showed up in that spot just behind me...so we decided right about then that it was time to head out. In hindsight, we're thinking maybe it's some kind of bathhouse and not a place for sacrifices.
After 72 hours of bliss in Ubud it was time to pack up and head out....
Stay tuned for our next destination: Gili Trawangan!
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